Slow roads, small towns and the ferry we nearly missed.
Three weeks along the coast without booking a single night ahead. What it cost, what we would do again, and the one stretch worth the detour.
21 nights · $1,480 for two · four ferries, one missed
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Two days, no rush, and a walking route that takes in the best of the skyline without a single queue.
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The handful of checks that separate a room you enjoy from a room you merely sleep in.
The slow morning that made the whole trip
I had an itinerary, a ferry to catch and a list of things to see. I missed all of it, and it was the best day of the trip.
Three places, what they cost.
Every entry ends with a line like the ones below: nights, price for two, and how we got there. It is the line I always wanted from other people’s blogs.
The harbourUp before the boats.
The only reason to set an alarm on this trip. The bakery opens at six and the fishermen are back by seven.
3 nights · $210 · bus from the port
The islandOne road, one town, one taverna.
No cars to speak of. We walked everything and ate at the same place four nights running.
4 nights · $340 · morning ferry, 40 min
The boathouseThe one worth the detour.
Two hours off the route and the best two nights of the trip. The owner rows out for the bread.
2 nights · $190 · hire car, then a rowing boat
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